On Pennsylvania's Shawnee Inn and Golf Resort's spacious and secluded grounds guard bees congregate on the porch of the hives providing ventilation for the life of the queen. Six varieties of tomatoes, white eggplant, Chinese five-color peppers and multi-colored chard thrive in the middle of one of America's oldest award-winning golf courses. Micro-beers are being bottled by a former electronics engineer of advanced defense weapons. Goat cheese is delivered fresh from a local farm. The mist on the Delaware River swirls through the tree-covered Pocono Mountains, and Frank Sinatra's voice croons softly through the 100 year old lobby. This is the 21st Century?Buckwood Inn
The stately Buckwood Inn (renamed in 1943 the Shawnee Inn) was the pinnacle of engineering modernity when it opened in 1911. New York businessman and engineer, Charles Campbell Worthington had been a resident of historic Shawnee-on-Delaware for over a decade when he made the decision to create his dream hotel and golf course in this quiet, bucolic countryside along the Delaware River. Constructed of 12 inch thick reinforced concrete, including the floors, Buckwood was the Pocono Mountains first fireproof lodge. The rooms were modern and luxurious.
The Delaware as a water trap
Famed golf course architect, and Philadelphia native, A.W. Tillinghast designed the 18-hole course on an island reachable only by a bridge that had to be reconstructed every spring. Tennis, concerts on the Grand Lawn, fishing, boating and swimming in the river were just some of the activities at Worthington's exclusive resort. Food supplies for the restaurant came from the Inn's own garden and surrounding farms. Fresh milk, cream, vegetables, meats, game and fish were all locally sourced.
The present is the past
With a century's passing, today's environmentally sensitive owners, Charles and Virginia Kirkwood, have not altered the character of Shawnee, except for exclusivity. As a teenager, Charles Kirkwood's machinist father was not allowed to drive onto the grounds when he dropped his son off for his summer caddie job. Now the once exclusive private golf course is public. Guests may no longer arrive for the entire summer season with servants, but the accommodations are still luxurious and state-of-the-art.
The long wide verandah overlooking the Grand Lawn and the river beyond is lined with rocking chairs. Cell phone use is not permitted in any of the Inn's public spaces, including the verandah. The spacious lobby and the landings on the staircase are decorated with antique craftsmen furniture and Asian antiques gathered by the Kirkwood's during their years of residence in Asia. A floor-to-ceiling bookcase is filled with history and literature for guests to read. There is only one public TV, and it's in the small corner River Room Piano Bar. Music from the 1930's onward played so softly in the background as to transport me to another time, and I could talk in a whisper while still being heard by my wife.
A pillow menu?
By modern American luxury resort standards, the Inn's eighty guest rooms are modest in size but offer all amenities, large screen TV, free internet access, desk, couch, pillow-topped beds, large windows, a Jacuzzi with the strongest water jets outside of a spa, tile bathrooms and large fluffy towels. With 12 inch thick concrete walls, once the door is closed the only sounds in the room are your own. I slept like a proverbial baby.
As if the room isn't comfortable enough, a "luxury pillow menu" rests on your bed, just below the four large fluffy ones already there. Would you like a Contoured Memory Foam pillow, a Beautyrest Allergen Reduction pillow or an Organic Buckwheat pillow? They, and three more varieties, are yours for the asking. If your children have trouble sleeping in a strange bed, arrangements can be made, complimentary, for a sleep specialist to read bedtime stories to your little ones.
In an adjacent wooded residential section of the historic village of Shawnee-on-Delaware (1740) guests who desire more space can stay in the Legacy Collection of vacation cottages or the Delaware Lodge. These custom designed, Arts and Crafts style houses provide spacious suites, full sized ultra modern kitchens, private patios with even the air-conditioning units designed as works of art.
Jackie Gleason as student
Most of the immaculate, now 27-hole, golf course is still on the island and reached by a bridge which is reconstructed every spring. Winter ice flows on the river make any other arrangement impractical. Golf remains the backbone of activity at Shawnee with a wide range of packages and tournaments. Arrangements for tee times and other golf activities are handled by J.J. Astomsky, golf sales manager, in the ground floor pro shop.
For newbies to the sport, there is the 9-hole Tillinghast Approach Course, the driving range and the Tillinghast Golf Academy, in the historic 1782 Red Brick House, under the able direction of PGA Golf Pro Jim Miller providing a number of training packages. The relaxed, friendly atmosphere should embarrass no beginner, after all in 1959 Jackie Gleason played his first ever golf game at Shawnee.
The River and Kid's Camp
Kayaking, canoeing, swimming in the Delaware River, tennis, volleyball, bike riding, fishing and hiking are complimented by winter skiing on nearby Shawnee Mountain. Especially for boating, the able staff at the Recreation Building will make arrangements for both individual and group activities. My first-time ever kayaking excursion, with Brandon, the cheerful recreation manager following alongside on this docile stretch of the river immersed in nature, was an exercise in relaxation.
Shawnee prides itself on being a family resort and while parents are playing golf perhaps the children would enjoy the activities at Kids Camp. Of course there is a beautiful heated indoor pool as well as a game room and gym.
Fun is hard work
After a day of physical activities, or just a lazy afternoon catching up with a good book on the verandah, why not visit the Spa Shawnee and Salon which opened in 2007. Like everything in this green resort, the Spa uses only the best in all natural and organic products to pamper and rejuvenate.
Shawnee Playhouse
Cultural activities have been part of Shawnee even before the resort. C.C. Worthington constructed Worthington Hall (1904) in the village as a venue for concerts, lectures and the Shawnee Playhouse. The resort's second owner, Fred Waring, used the hall for his nationally broadcast radio show featuring his big band, The Pennsylvanians, and major stars of stage and screen. The Kirkwood's fully restored the National Historic Register structure and once more it's a venue for concerts and the Shawnee Playhouse.
Community concerts by local groups take place on the Grand Lawn every Wednesday evening along with a farmers' market featuring members of the Foodshed Alliance, many of whom provide the fresh ingredients for Shawnee's restaurants. On many evenings live music is featured in the dining rooms.
Environment First
The restaurants at Shawnee epitomize the very soul of the Slow Food movement. Locally sourced products from tomatoes to lamb are used whenever possible. The resort's own 3000+ square foot farm, on the golf course island, is a model of chemical free growing methods.
An apiary, under the direction of horticulturalist Erin Schroll, provides honey for sale in the gift shop, as an ingredient in some of the craft beers and many uses in the kitchens. Maple trees on the grounds are tapped every spring, and an orchard has just recently been planted. The breakfast granola, chock full of more nuts than oats, highlights Shawnee's aromatic honey and maple syrup.
The resort's own ShawneeCraft® Brewing Company produces five premium beers and ales year round and 15 seasonal varieties in a brewery made from a reconverted ice skating rink using recycled equipment throughout.
Pennsylvania's Best
The seasonally adjusted menus in both the resort's restaurants, the Inn's River Room, and the separate Gem and Keystone Brew Pub, feature the best Pennsylvania offers. Succulent lamb chops stuffed with Shawnee's own vegetables, a leg of Duck Confit bursting with flavor and falling off the bone paired with a salad of local greens and Shrimp Tandoori redolent with spices, an homage to Chef Gaurav Navin's native India, are a small sample of the flavors flowing from this imaginative kitchen.
The Gem and Keystone Brew Pub's Chef Dan Stripp builds his menu around American fare that highlights items from the wood-fired grill and incorporates ShawneeCraft® beer. The wood grilled bruschetta topped with tomatoes from the farm, basil from the herb garden, Pennsylvania garlic and local feta is inspired. The slow smoked baby back ribs glazed in a rich beer based barbecue sauce are the best I've eaten anywhere.
General Manager Rob Howell is the hands-on impresario of Shawnee and in June 2011 was chosen by the American Hotel and Lodging Association as United States General Manager of the Year. Charles and Virginia Kirkwood and Rob Howell can be justly proud of this slice of early 20th century paradise for which they are the accomplished stewards.
Shawnee Inn and Golf Resort
One River Road
Shawnee-on-Delaware, PA 18356
www.ShawneeInn.com
1-800-742-9633
Average rates start at $115 - $145, Queen room, depending on the season. Many specials, golf and wedding packages are available.
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